Link to the Ecopoint post on this trip.

Thursday afternoon I text Elin:

Plans for the weekend?
Climbing!
Do you have space?
My sofa is always free!

Friday after work I’m on my bike, panniers filled with trad gear and a sleeping bag, ready for a weekend adventure. I spin to Østerport and haul my bike on to the Øresundståg to Gothenburg. I find a seat, and open up my book just as the train leaves Denmark behind. After spending far too long waiting for good weather, I was ready to give my nemesis project - Masken - another go.

In May, we tried on toprope, only to give up halfway, before the crux. My fingers bled from bad finger-jam technique. In June, I got stuck at the crux. Earlier that September, I spent 2 days working the route, memorizing gear-beta and practicing the balancy moves. The month spent in Lofoten had paid off, and the route felt possible. Now, I was facing one of the last chances before rounding off the season.

The train rolls in to Gothenburg, where I have 40 minutes to grab a bite and get on the Västtrafik train towards Strømstad. An hour later I jump back on my bike in Munkedal. I cycle west, passing the Hallinden crag, Tempo, and Häller klattercamping, ending in Vrångeback, where Elin and crew have saved some leftovers for me.

After a solid breakfast the next morning, we’re off to the crag. The air is cool but dry, morning dew already evaporating from the grass as we walk up to Galgeberget.

We run a warm-up lap up one of the lines at Store Galgeberget, to get the fingers ready for the jams. I set a top-rope anchor in the top, and run a lap up to refresh my memory of the placements. After a similar warm-up lap, Josh has his first go, which almost goes - he slips halfway through the crux sequence.

“Dude, it looked like you had it!” I exclaim, while Josh descends to the ground.

“Should have taped better” Josh comments, in a tone the opposite of cheerful - a gentle reminder to me to check my fingertape. It seems solid, but who can be sure? Seems like waiting time is over.

Getting ready is a convivial affair - my little beta-dance was well received by the other climbers around. There’s a slight breeze, but not so much that it’s cold. In homage to summer days long gone, I shed my shirt and hope it’ll keep me from sweating up the crack.

The first half goes by in a blast. Before I know it I’m placing my two bomber yellows before the long crux run. Moving through the crux is smooth and I allow myself to flow up the crack. Right before the crack widens in the end, my finger slips out, and I see a small white object fall between my legs. So much for that tape, I think, but I’m out of the flow, and get my hand placements wrong. Muttering a curse I’m about to let myself give up, but Josh’s voice pierces my thoughts:

“Just two more moves and you’re in.”

He’s right, I can’t give up. I spot a slight edge out to my left, and try to push off it with my shoulder. It works, but it ain’t pretty. My bodyweight shifts out to the left, and I have one reach to the ledge. Here goes nothing, I think, as I jump upwards. The edge makes contact with my palm and I breathe a sigh of relief. Before relaxing to the point of falling, I mantle up over the top. What a great way to round off the season.

Descending and cleaning, I’m grinning like a fool. “I guess it’s about time I gave you a catch?” I say, determined to play belay-bitch for the rest of the day. The sun is still shining - next summer doesn’t feel so far away. But it’s time to find a new Bohuslän project.

Big thanks to Josh for working together on Masken, Elin for hosting, and Ebba for giving a catch. More adventures to come!