Alpinism is waiting.

Newton said that invention is 99% perspiration and 1% inspiration - similarly, Alpinism is 90% waiting and 10% perspiration.

Reading Ludwig Hohl’s adage to the mountains, Bergfahrt (or, Ascent in English), exemplifies this thoroughly. Most of Hohl’s story is circled around the characters waiting at different point during the mountaineering journey. From waiting for the bus, waiting in the Alp cabin, waiting for a snowstorm to pass, or waiting for night to end, most of what happens during the ascent is waiting. Even when moving, alpinists wait more than half the time, as climbing in this fashion means waiting for your partner a bit less than half the time, moving yourself half the time, and organizing gear at rest a little bit of the time. ¹

This is also why, as an alpine climber, one of the most important parts of being a good partner is to always do something. ² While waiting it’s prudent to organize gear, look ahead for route finding, refuel, re-sunscreen, change clothing, check on the time, or keep an update on the weather. When both climbers have this mindset, there is a higher probability that the outing will be successful. Depending on the success metric that can be “summit” or “turn around in time to not get caught by objective danger” or just “have a fun day out”. In general it stands that no one loves to wait even though everyone does it. That means that a being a good climbing partner involves:

1. minimizing waiting, but also
2. making waiting as enjoyable as possible.